I’m in need of some advice on a fold-top table. It is in need of some TLC! The legs are a little wobbly and it needs work on the finish.
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Beautiful table!
If the top is solid, it can be refinished pretty easily. If it’s veneered or ply, I think new veneer may be in order.
To get the legs a bit more firm (these type folding tables are never rock-solid) tightening or replacing some of the hardware, making sure the wooden spindle is holding the hardware well, and potentially the introduction of some brass or vinyl washers.
I try to be in on Monday nights and will be at the space tonight about 7 to 8:30 if you’d like to bring it by.
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That would be great! I’ll be there around 7:30.
Diana
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From: noreply=talk.makeict.org@mg.makeict.org noreply=talk.makeict.org@mg.makeict.org on behalf of Aaron Rivers via MakeICT Forum noreply@talk.makeict.org
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:38:28 AM
To: scandia9094@hotmail.com scandia9094@hotmail.com
Subject: [MakeICT] Woodworking advice
 |
squarenuts Vice President and Woodshop Area Lead March 4 |
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Beautiful table!
If the top is solid, it can be refinished pretty easily. If it’s veneered or ply, I think new veneer may be in order.
To get the legs a bit more firm (these type folding tables are never rock-solid) tightening or replacing some of the hardware, making sure the wooden spindle is holding the hardware well, and potentially the introduction of some brass or vinyl washers.
I try to be in on Monday nights and will be at the space tonight about 7 to 8:30 if you’d like to bring it by.
Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond.
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Tagging along to request for woodshop advice.
I cut a 2x12 down for a chair pedestal adaptor. [Pics to follow when infigure that out on my phone.]
I am converting a conversion van captains chair into a desk chair? Attempting to anyway. Enjoying the journey. A few false starts. An overstressed pinion hole that broke my board on fitup test but that didnt surprise me.
First I cut a thick a 2x12 to about 3 ft long. Then, i cut the corners off. I expect to route or maybe even angle the edges down. I dislike sharo corners
At home, my table saw does let me set the angled pusher to a 45 ° angle. But not our great table saw here. After cutting the 6 footer in half [not lengthwise] i cut the corners off at 45°.
I was able to just eyeball my corner cutoffs after marking them. But was stymied about setting the protactor head on the pusher. It doesnt go much past 30°. And I didnt see a [custom?] Angled pusher tool. And kinda sorta faintly remember this being mentioned in passing when I was oriented in woodshop permissions class.
And I kind of want all canted and rounded edges on this board before Im done. Or my tender toes will find them hard corners. Please help.
Aspirational carpentry. Its easy to ask for help. And i dont very much care if it looks like my skill level needs an upgrade. Its why im here. Its why Im asking. Im GRATEFUL for access to a well equipped shop that is safe first, effective 2nd.
And I expect the safety part of the answer first or my opinion of my shop peers gets downgraded. Lets keep finger count maximized. Eye safety too. [Two].
And yes, Ive worn a twotoo, but not over my eyes.
I’m not sure what you mean by pusher. Do you mean the miter gauge?
You may find it easier to control if you use the miter saw to cut the corners. That’s what I would do with what I believe you have.
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Yes, thats what i couldnt think of the name. The miter gauge.
At home, mine can tilt to 45. So i was surprised when our table saw’s would not.
Ok. Different saw. Miter saw. Chop saw…
I will look at that. It should fit for my 2x12.
There is another miter gauge that I have used and was cutting corners off at 25 degrees. It may be on the shelves behind the table saw.
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Both of our miter gauges can adjust to 45° in both directions…
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Ok it appeared that I just had to unscrew it all the way… take it apart so to speak.
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I’m not understanding what you mean at all. Both miter gauges, the standard one and the incra, are capable of going well past 45 degrees. The standard one stops at 60 and the incra can go all the way to 90. You do not need to disassemble either to do that. Please explain what you mean. It sounds as though you really mean you need to go past 60 degrees, not 30. If that’s the case, and if you are taking the locking screw/handle out to do so, that can lead to a dangerous situation where the blade pulls the work in and causes it to kick back. Please do not do that. If you need to cut a steep angle like that, there is (or was) a jig specifically for that which holds the work securely clamped to avoid it kicking back. If using the incra for that type of cut, it is made so that a stop can be installed to prevent kick back but I don’t think we have a stop for it.
Not trying to be negative, but it seems like you might benefit from some tutoring on the safe use of the woodshop. Machinery can be dangerous when used correctly. Used incorrectly only increases the chance of injury.
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I haven’t been in the wood shop very much, but I totally agree with Dave on this. You gotta KNOW what you’re doing before just disassembling something and you have to know the proper way to use equipment before attempting to use it…especially something as potentially dangerous as the table saw.
Unfortunately, I know from experience about kickbacks. I was using my home table saw, and luckily, I was standing as far to the left as possible when making a cut, so a small chunk of 2x4 got caught by the saw blade and hit me in the upper right arm. It left a terrible, huge bruise and some pain for a few days, but at least that’s all the damage there was. It can happen quicker than you realize, in just a split second. Just be careful and know what you’re doing and give it your full focus and attention.
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When using the Incra, be sure the fence on it will not contact the blade when it is set to an angle.
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Thanks guys. It looks like i may have had a different one in hand. I looked at it again yesters and decided I could get it to go to 45 by disassembling and reassembling it beyond “the stop”. And I just did not see another miter gauge. I looked but did not see it.
I have another reason to meet with Aaron soon [hex core] and will show him what I was dealing with and maybe i will see that im just misunderstanding something. Meanwhile, my saw at home cuts 45s just fine.
Btw, i would never disassemble our equipment for my purposes without the oversight of an area lead. There is a bunch of equipment I am cleared to use… but still dont. And wont until guidance is handy.
We will meet in the woodshop to discuss this as this reply stream is WAY past the importance it has earned. I eyeballed the corner cuts and all is ok. And my fingers were never within 8 inches of the blade
while doing it. Then i wondered how i might do it correctly. Next time i will just ask in person. I just need to learn where stuff is.
Btw, when i found the drill index, i spilled it. Completely. Boy was that embarrasing. Then, i put every single bit back in the proper labeled bin, using the calipers to classify unmarked ones. I value what we have and will always work to take care of it.
But I have been called away from active work in the fablab more than once. And left my stuff there in my hurry. Oops.
In thus exchange, I amways had the opportunity to go hone and make the cuts on my cheapie table saw. The [few] precision cuts and the drill press are why I do my chair base at MakeICT Woodshop. But when its almost done… i have some edges to bevel and round, and will have to show it to an old hand to help do that safely and correctly.
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