Trailer Build

I’m starting to get serious about building a travel trailer camper. So much so, that I’ve bought and sold an embarrassing amount of trailers recently to fit some hasty purchases made when I thought I knew what I was doing. I’m pretty sure I’m committed to my most recent purchase, but it’s not perfect. That’s where the metal shop comes in…

I’d very much like to learn to weld. MIG, preferably, as I’ve done it ONCE.

I’d also like to include others; give others the opportunity to practice welding in order to make some adjustments to the trailer that I bring to the space.

I don’t expect the instructor to work for free. I am happy to pay the going rate for instruction, and I’m happy to supply raw material, including the trailer, for the duration of the class(es).

It’s a boat trailer, with an angled front and an excessively long tongue (Like Gene Simmons). I’d like to use that excess length to extend the deck (and adjust the axle position accordingly). It’s also a little rusty (also, not unlike Gene Simmons), so that will need a little attention, too.

So who’s interested, teaching or participating? And when can we start?

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Im interested in helping as a learning experience as i want to build my own camper, as well as eventually build tiny homes.

I don’t think my work schedule lately allows me to commit to anything. (I have had a gate in the bed of my truck for a couple months that still isn’t fully welded.) I do have a couple of comments, though. (Of course I do!)

First, there is something wrong with the MIG welder right now. I am not sure what. The regulator (and it is a regulator, not a flow meter which is what is on the TIG) seems to be doing its job, and there is some flow, but the shielding is not right. I don’t know if there is a liner issue, or what. If I had made it back to the space on Saturday, I was going to bring my MIG gun and swap it to see if the behavior changed. Even when cranked up, the shielding is poor at the initial arc, and if set where it normally would be, it acts like there is no shielding at all. Anyway, it might be wise to wait until that is resolved before practicing, as there is no good to be gained from learning on faulty equipment.

Second, do a bunch of practice welds, and test them, before welding on the trailer. Many trailers have been glued together with MIG that have failed on the road. MIG welding is like that. You can have a great looking weld that has little to no fusion.

Third, boat trailers are made with a long tongue because there tends to be a lot of weight at the stern of the boat. So, the balance works out with the axle farther back. Be careful to consider the weight balance of the trailer so that you don’t make it tongue-heavy, but you especially don’t want to make it tail-heavy.

Those frames are often made of rectangular tubing, so make sure to give it a good once-over. If “almost” totally closed off, they can retain water and rust from the inside out. They are intended to spread out a load over the length, but the weight is really handled by the bunks. I doubt you’ll have any real point loads building a camper.

I don’t know how long your trailer is, but weight adds up pretty quick. My 16’ flatbed is over 2k dry. If you have ever seen a TT that has been rolled, you know that it’s a wonder they don’t blow apart driving down the highway. But, like with aircraft, they have to do what they can to keep the weight down. That makes for some flimsy (read: iffy) construction methods. If you are going pretty sparse, that’s probably not a problem, but if you start adding creature comforts, the weight adds up fast. Just be aware.

If it’s a 2000# trailer, you can avoid tagging it, but it’s a good idea, IMO, to get a title anyway and to add the VIN in an inconspicuous spot while you can get to it. The idea is, if somebody steals it and removes the VIN tag, you can still identify it.

that’s my 2.8¢.

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Can’t do much with welding or flat woodworking. I would be willing to discuss how to insulate effectively to make it comfortable. Let me know.

John

I am going to be adding brakes to the axle to accommodate up to 5k. That means I’ll also be installing a new axle. (I already purchased brakes and hubs before realizing they wouldn’t fit on the spindles from a previously purchased trailer.)
I’m leaning toward a torsion axle, as that will be easier to be made to fit my 62 inch frame width. I imagine that I’ll be able to more easily adjust the axle position, too, if my design changes mid-build. I also plan to make the trailer and deck of the trailer as beefy as possible to keep the camper from being top-heavy.

The trailer is built from 2X4 rectangular tubing, on the sides and tongue. But it is a little rusty. I need to clean it up to be sure how tough it is.

And if TIG welding is a better option, I’m okay with that. Right now, I don’t know what would hold up to the demands the best.

You might consider adding a pipe at and front and rear of the trailer frame connecting the two sides. Having a pipe crossmember will greatly reduce the twisting of the trailer frame. Pipe will twist, but it take a great deal more force to twist a pipe vs square, rectangle, or channel. Rigidity of the frame is paramount if you are going to want the structure to maintain its shape over time. Twisting will weaken all joints of the living space…… MIG welding is good enough for a trailer, I wouldn’t even consider tig welding it if I were building it, but to each their own. Good luck, steel prices have gone through the roof and no sign of any relief… If you need an axle, when you know what you need give me a txt with the info and I can see what my dealer cost is at Redneck trailer supply. My prices are usually a lot better than retail with them, might be able to save you some on that part of your build… However, I have found some items better priced online, but shipping on an axle might eat any cost savings…

Check the frame for rust, as boat trailers are usually a bit thin and rust out early in their lives… If you have too much rust, it might be worth replacing with 3 or 4” channel as that is what we typically use when building trailers or frames in general… If you need anything, give me a call and if I can help or…… Hope your project goes well and you have a great group to work with!

3I6 7O8 O3I6 is my cell

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How much rust is too much rust? Do I grind it down? Do I just sand it and paint it? Can I just weld on some parallel tubing across the bottom or top to give it some more strength if I’m concerned about its strength?

I would have purchased a new trailer, but I already have some of the parts. I considered building from scratch, but that would have cost me more in raw materials than just buying a used trailer.

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Welder is working fine now. I don’t know who fixed it or what they might have done but it runs clean beads now.