Tiffany style lamp

I have a lamp in my game room with a usb port at the base for charging, however the lamp is so light that if you try to push a usb cable into the port the lamp slides across the end table instead of the cable going into the port. Because of my inability to let myself do things the easy way, and I had been waiting to be able to take the stained glass class for a while, I decided that I should make my own lamp with a stained glass shade instead of something simple like opening up the existing lamp and filling the hollow sections with something cheap and heavy like scrap lead.

For the lamp body, I got some curly maple turning blanks to make the bulk of the lamp body. I made it in two pieces, one for the base and one for a pillar. I then turned these on a lathe. Unfortunately most of the figuring on the pillar was lost on the lathe, but the base still shows it well.

Here is the pillar after I first turned it and drilled a hole through the center for the wiring. I later did some more work on it to clean up some of the tearout. The marks on the bottom won’t show, I used that tennon to grip the blank while I was drilling the center, and I will use it to join the pillar to the base.

I turned the base a bit later. Here I have test fitted the two, but the pillar sits a bit too high, the tenon needed to be shortened so it could fit into a mortise in the base. You might see a bit of a groove on the base, I didn’t notice that until I had taken the picture, I have since mounted it back on the lathe and sanded out that groove.

I am now in the process of finishing. I used a red mahogany dye, I haven’t used dyes for wood finishing before but it appeared to be a popular choice for curly maple. These pictures are after 3 coats of dye and then some shellac over top to protect it, I will probably do a few more coats to bring out some more shine and make the grain pop a bit more.


I also got started on the shade today. I am going to be using this pattern paired with a styrofoam form to hold the glass in the proper shape instead of designing one myself, although I will be using a different color scheme.

I am using a different vent cap for the top of the shade than the ones suggested by the pattern designers (the company that supplies them went out of buissness and they are hard to find in stock), so I decided to make the top row in clear practice glass today to make sure I was able to use the morton system properly to cut the simple parts that need a lot of duplicates and that everything would fit properly. I am glad I did so, when I was cutting these clear pieces I cut on the inside of the lines, but this pattern is a bit unusual and you are supposed to cut on the outside of the lines, but I didn’t notice until I had cut them all and placed them on the form, so I just foiled the pieces I had and tried to space them as evenly as possible and solder them to see how it would fit the vented cap would fit, but the gaps were hard to fill, but this doesn’t need to be pretty, it is just to make sure things are going to fit.

After finding out about my error cutting the pieces too small I adjusted my jigs on the morton system to make pieces a bit bigger to close up the gaps between the glass pieces and between the glass and the cap. After confirming that the new larger pieces matched up with the outside lines of the pattern I used my jigs to cut the pieces out of amber opal stained glass, I forgot to get a picture of those before packing everything up though.

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It’s all looking really nice so far. Good luck with it.

I did some more glass cutting today, here are the pieces in the form. There are no colored pieces yet but I will be getting to some of them soon.

I also got a black marble base for some extra assurance against the lamp tipping, but I can’t finish wiring it up until I get a few more pieces in. I also cut a mortise for a USB charging port but I need a short cable to go from my converter to the mortise and they sent me a 6 foot cable instead of a 6 inch one, so I can’t finish wiring things up yet. Also, while cutting the mortise part of the wood split out but I was able to glue it back together and it shouldn’t be too noticeable in the position it is in.

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This is really nice, good job!

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I made some more progress over the long weekend. I have cut the first set of colored pieces for the shade (these stars were a pain to cut, but they are done now, most of the rest of the cuts look like they should be easier, I just need to do a lot of them.

I am going to start foiling the pieces I have cut so far once my fingers heal up a bit and I plan to solder the parts I have into 6 larger sections, that should make transportation more manageable, I am afraid of pieces falling off as I move it as is. That will make things more of a pain because I will have to wax it to prevent corrosion and then remove the wax when I go to assemble the whole thing so the solder will work properly, but it is better than having to pull all the 100+ pieces I have so far off the form to transport them more securely every time I want to work on it.

I also got the lamp wired up today. I will need to get a larger harp and a final that is threaded correctly (apparently lamp harps use 1/4-27 threads instead of the standard 20 TPI for 1/4" OD threads but lamp suppliers will still sell 1/4-20 finials) but it lights up and I did a sanity check if the ac to USB conversion box I scavenged from the old lamp and my multimeter reads 5v where I expect it, 0v and continuity to ground where it should be, and acceptably low voltage on the data pins.

And here it is with a temporary shade until I finish the glass one.

The mortise for the USB port didn’t turn out as clean as I would have liked it, but I intentionally located it in a cove so the shadow of the bread above it would hide it, you would never be able to tell unless you crouched in front of it with a flashlight, and even then it would be difficult if a cable is plugged in.

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