Major crash.
Can you stick a sign on it and turn the power off on the back once the nozzle is cool? I’ll work on it tomorrow. Thanks!
I did shut it down, but forgot to put a sign on it. I also texted Troy on the number he wrote in front of the printer.
Three hours and three new parts - Prusa 4 is back up and functional! Thanks @gemma for all you do!
I KNOW from experience that wasn’t an easy undertaking… THANK YOU!!!
So what happened? How did it happen? How to fix it? I know, these do not have short answers but I am just asking for a brief overview/answer. I do not need details at this stage. Thank you.
There’s a new guide on the wiki to help with that:
MakeICT Prusa 3D Printers and Filament Types
The Process™:
- Something causes the nozzle to grab the print, whether it be a slight misstep, the print comes off the bed, etc.
- Time passes. Printer thinks it should still deposit filament. Meanwhile the dragging around the plate can cause the already printed material to work into more fun and exciting places.
- Someone goes @#$! and stops the print.
- Heat up the nozzle and let it get all gooey.
- Pull gently with pliers.
- Brass brush the rest off.
Thank you shack. Hoping it’s not me… missing something or didn’t do something. I have printed that “print” 3 other times already. This was the fourth print and the only one to go wrong.
In this case, the Z offset wasn’t optimized to the plate being used which caused poor adhesion for the first layer. The presets in the Prusas for different plate types should now fix this problem.
There was so much material covering the bottom of the heatblock that we needed to disassemble the hot end to get it all cleared. It had also wrapped around the fan shroud, and heating ABS hot enough to remove meant sacrificing that fan shroud and printing a new one.
And when pulling material off with pliers, be extremely careful around the heater cartridge and thermistor cables, which are easy to rip out while pulling off material.