I trying to mill a 3/16" x 1" slot in a 1/2" x 1/8" strip of aluminum.
What speed should I set the mill at and how fast should I cut it?
What DOC should I use?
Fred Gassert
I can’t answer that question. I am pretty sure those who can will need to know what mill you are using and probably what cutter.
With aluminum, you can use just about any cutter rpm, but make sure you use something as a lubricant, whether actual cutting oil, WD-40, isopropyl alcohol. Feed depends on the rpm but you need to make sure it can evacuate the chips. DOC depends a lot on the cutter, but I tend to stay at our less than 1x diameter most of the time really just because it feels safe. Finish passes I’ll cut full depth but often require a spring pass. Aluminum can be gummy depending on the alloy.
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I havent milled aluminum in decades but this shouldnt have changed much.
I would answer better if I knew your endmill size and feed rate settings, and how the workpiece will be clamped onto the machine. That said, Ive seen it done really fast, both spindle and bed speeds. But you need sane advice, not production level speeds. How many do you plan to cut? If just one, then no room for mistakes on final cut? Then plan on 3 passes. Roughout, Mostly finish, and Final Pass pretty pass. I might do final pass to just remove the last ten or fifteen thousandths. Esp if I dont know how well I can trust the machine ive never used.
Your roughout is the speed limited cut but 5 to 20 ipm with spindle sleeds of 500-2000 will work. Presuming one inch four flute endmill. Faster spindle with a two flute. A machinist will look at the clearances on his or her endmill, and decide on spindle speed based on sharpness condition, and clearance on backside of cutter. Then select a table speed at the low end, but speed up travel if the chips show gumming. Any speed that gives clean chips is a good speed. But put up a shield to protect neighboring spaces please, if it throws them very far…
Im a chemist and Im here mostly for 3D printing stuff. Maybe ceramics. But I have an old machinist toolbox with tools I would sell after moving and never using them in 40 years.
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Thank you for the information. For the small piece I have left to do I should be okay. I did buy some new 2 fluted end mill tips. I think that will help more than anything.
Fred Gassert
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On Mon, Nov 20, 2023 at 11:51 AM Tim Chavez via MakeICT Forum <noreply@talk.makeict.org> wrote:
| timchavez56 MakeICT Member
November 20 |
- | - |
I havent milled aluminum in decades but this shouldnt have changed much.
I would answer better if I knew your endmill size and feed rate settings, and how the workpiece will be clamped onto the machine. That said, Ive seen it done really fast, both spindle and bed speeds. But you need sane advice, not production level speeds. How many do you plan to cut? If just one, then no room for mistakes on final cut? Then plan on 3 passes. Roughout, Mostly finish, and Final Pass pretty pass. I might do final pass to just remove the last ten or fifteen thousandths. Esp if I dont know how well I can trust the machine ive never used.Your roughout is the speed limited cut but 5 to 20 ipm with spindle sleeds of 500-2000 will work. Presuming one inch four flute endmill. Faster spindle with a two flute. A machinist will look at the clearances on his or her endmill, and decide on spindle speed based on sharpness condition, and clearance on backside of cutter. Then select a table speed at the low end, but speed up travel if the chips show gumming. Any speed that gives clean chips is a good speed. But put up a shield to protect neighboring spaces please, if it throws them very far…
Im a chemist and Im here mostly for 3D printing stuff. Maybe ceramics. But I have an old machinist toolbox with tools I would sell after moving and never using them in 40 years.
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I forgot to say, I always make a very light pass to see if the cutter and part are square in the vice or clamp. Shaving off some of the blue dykem was just part of setup… back in the day. 8 used a piece of paper to get that close.