The ones I’ve installed have been put in a hole. Then filled around the pipe with concrete, Then fill the pipe! Not all that hard.
I happened to notice, that we already have pipe right in the current location from the old AC… so is this something that really needs to be done right now?
Would it just be simpler to if people wanted to, weld a piece of rebar on the front of these, as @tom.bloom suggested?
The dumpster location being between the Garage Door and the Entrance has been discussed since early November. I believe that @David has been thinking that trash will not be coming through the Maint Room, instead out the north entrance. We also need to keep the dumpster from blocking the garage door. The screen should be between the garage door and the dumpster.
The bollards there need to protect the building and the AC. Picture taken to show 811 marking before snow melts.
Yes, the dumpster will live between the garage door and the north entrance, with the screening wall directly to the east of the dumpster, up against and perpendicular to the building. We’ll want to make sure we leave a little working room around the garage door, so the screen can meet the wall of the building a few feet west of the west edge of the garage door.
We didn’t want to keep the dumpster in its current prominent spot, partly because it is a prominent spot, and partly because we’d like a clear view of the garage door from the street for security purposes.
We’ll need bollards or their equivalent between the dumpster and the building, just in case the trash truck gets too intimate with the dumpster, and it wouldn’t be a bad idea to have a bollard that lives at the edge of the screen to keep cars from getting too personal with it.
I’m open to different ways of making the bollards, with preference to the least expensive yet adequate method that can be installed relatively easily. If I were assigned the task with no other input and left to my own devices, I’d probably get a few cardboard concrete footing tubes, bury about 2 feet of the end in the ground, throw in some rebar and fill it with concrete. Once it was dry, I’d paint it yellow. Someone else would have a completely different approach, no doubt. The old saying is “Cheap, fast, or good. Pick any two.” I’d like all three, please.
And if anyone has a used but working garage door opener that would fit our door, I’d love to see that, too.
That’s what I was thinking only difference is it is harder to replace if damaged
I got an electric concrete mixer from HF if you need to borrow
I like this but instead of cardboard tube and rebar how about small 10" ditch culvert filled with concrete then left in place and painted this way it is reinforced from the outside and has a galvanized metal shell
@Frank I thought about corrugated metal culverts tubes, but it was hard to find in smaller diameters, and relatively expensive. It ended up about $100 per post. If you could find anything under 12", and if you cut the tubes they would unravel if not welded or something. I looked at Tractor supply, Menards, and across the internet.
@David
The cheapest option would be David’s suggestion sonotube/rebar/concreate combination. Ranges from $22-43 from 6" to 10", buying 12’ tubes and cutting in half. 4’ exposed and 2’ footing.
I have no idea how well they would hold up over time, but I am sure they would be fine for a couple years.
Just in case here is my spreadsheet for the numbers.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NrRHJGTcDkEtg8sBCOZfPEiSvtrCIMDpsdEAnHdjs5o/edit?usp=sharing
Kk let me reach out to some of my old KDOT contacts no guarantee but maybe a chance they might have something that could work
How many do we need ?at what length including what you want underground 6 ft?
Is wood an option I got several 6-8 ft 4x6 post from old kdot sign post they are still in great condition
I talk to my guy today and he said he might have some I beams…Free how many do we need
3 @ 6 Feet
My contact can supply us with some free ibeams he thinks he will be in town monday I’ll tie in with him then.
Will I beams be ok I’m told they are heavyduty!
Structurally, I-Beams are stronger then Round Tubes. Iron to Iron,
So a 6 inch I-Beam would be stronger compared to a 6 inch iron pipe.
3 6 inch x 6 feet would work, Free is always good. Is this delivered to Wichita?
2 wood posts would work great for holding the screen.
Yes it will be delivered to me and I’ll bring it to booth!
Thank you Frank, this is awesome
Just a heads-up on both bollards and our screening fence for the dumpster. As part of our rezoning, we are required to sign an Encroachment Agreement that deals with holes, footings, and structures. Here’s the wording of the agreement, but we’ll need to abide by its wording and make the proper filings before we do any work on bollards and screen.
THIS ENCROACHMENT AGREEMENT, made this 6th day of January 2020, by and between MakeICT Institute, party of the first part (hereinafter referred to as “Owner”) and the City of Wichita, party of the second part (hereinafter referred to as “City”).
WITNESSETH:
WHEREAS, the public has been or will be granted easements within the boundary of Lot 1, Block 1, Makerspace Addition, either by virtue of the plat or separate instrument (hereinafter referred to as “Easements”); and
WHEREAS, Owner desires or may desire to construct private improvements within said Easements (hereinafter referred to as “Improvements”);
NOW THEREFORE, in consideration of the premises and the several mutual and reciprocal promises of the parties, it is agreed as follows:
(1) City hereby agrees to allow Owner to construct Improvements without footings within said Easements limited to pavement, concrete slabs, pavers and landscaping including irrigation systems and berms, and trash enclosures (non-structural fence only), provided that no Improvement shall cause a waterline within Easements to be buried in excess of seven feet, nor cause an existing manhole to be deeper than allowed by its diameter per City Specifications;
And to construct Improvements with footings within said Easements limited to light poles (including electrical conduit, perpendicular to easement, directly to light pole), signs and non-structural fenceposts, provided that a minimum of five horizontal feet of clear space is maintained between all said footings and the outside of the nearest utility pipe when measured horizontally. Masonry walls may cross Easements provided all footings are outside the Easements.
Any manholes, valves, meters and/or fire hydrants buried by Improvements shall be adjusted to grade at the expense of Owner with engineered plans approved by the City Engineer. No Improvements may obstruct surface drainage.
Improvements other than indicated in this Agreement require a separate Use of Easement permit as per Title 10 of the City Code including the annual usage fee and insurance requirement.
2
(2) Owner covenants and agrees that it will not begin construction of any Improvements with footings, trash enclosures, or berms without first submitting an Encroachment Exhibit including plan, profile, footing detail and specifications for such Improvements to the City Engineer for approval by the City Engineer and all franchised utilities. An Encroachment Exhibit Submittal Form shall accompany the Exhibit. The City Engineer and franchised utilities reserve the right to require adjustments to locations of Improvements. Owner further covenants and agrees that City, its successors and assigns, shall have no responsibility or obligation for the maintenance or repair of any Improvements, with or without footings. In the event that the Improvements are in need of repair, Owner shall be responsible for the cost of any maintenance, reconstruction, and/or repair of any Improvements including pavement. An Encroachment Exhibit shall be submitted to the City Engineer’s Office for each encroachment instance.
(3) In the event that any utility permitted within Easements is planned for construction or requires repair and/or maintenance and the same construction or repair is determined by the City Engineer to be impossible or impractical due to the presence of Improvements, Owner shall be obligated to (a) allow City to damage or remove by the best practices of the construction industry, any Improvements within said Easements; (b) remove Improvements and clear Easements; or (c) pay the costs of tunneling under Improvements to allow for construction, repair and/or maintenance of the permitted utility. After being notified by City of the planned repair, maintenance or construction, Owner shall have fifteen (15) days to notify City of its option. If removal of the structure is selected, then Owner shall have 30 days from the date in which the Owner communicated its selection to the City to complete the removal of said Improvements. If Owner fails to remove Improvements or agree to pay the costs of tunneling under Improvements within thirty (30) days, City may remove or damage any Improvements within Easements, with Owner being responsible to pay the costs to remove and replace that portion of Improvements within Easements. The time to select an option or remove Improvements may be extended by City in writing. City is not obligated to repair or replace Improvements.
(4) In the event of an emergency or situation in which extensive notice is not feasible, that requires a repair and/or maintenance of any permitted utility within Easements, and the same repair and/or maintenance is determined by the City Engineer to be impossible or impractical due to the presence of Improvements, City may damage or remove by the best practices of the construction industry, Improvements within Easements, with the Owner being responsible to pay the costs to remove that portion of Improvements within Easements. City is not obligated to repair or replace Improvements including pavement.
(5) Owner agrees to protect and indemnify City and adjacent property owners against any increased cost related to new extensions for future development or service connections that may accrue to them due to the necessity of construction of greater distance to avoid conflicts with any Improvements that may be built within Easements. In the event Owner fails to provide such indemnification, Owner agrees that City may charge any cost incurred by the greater distance against the property of Owner.
(6) Owner agrees to indemnify and hold harmless City from any and all claims for personal injury and/or property damage resulting from the leaking, cave-in or failure of that portion of said utility within Easements for which injury and/or damage is caused by the presence of Improvments. Owner hereby releases City from any and all claims that it might have for property damage caused by work performed by City, or its employees, agents and
3contractors, in connection with the inspection, repair and/or maintenance of the Easements.
(7) Owner agrees to pay the current Easement Use Permit application fee per Title 10 of Municipal Code for Improvements with footings and trash enclosures for each Encroachment Exhibit submitted. There will be no recurring annual fee or insurance requirements for the encroachments allowed by this Agreement.
(8) The provisions contained herein are to be construed as covenants running with the land and may be enforced against any titleholder of the within described premises, so long as Improvements contemplated by this agreement are in existence.
(9) This document creates a temporary, non-exclusive interest in real property and is not a construction contract governed by K.S.A. 16-121 as amended.
Thanks @David . I think we can avoid a problem. The heads up helps.
John
FYI, the Locke order is at Booth.
So would the use of I beams be considered structural?
Frank, No! My use of structural was referring to the relative strength of an I Beam compared to a round pipe. The round pipe is a form and a protection to the concrete, when used for a Bollard. The enclosed concrete is the strength, partly due to the concrete and partly due to the enclosure.
The I Beam will not need the concrete.
I’m sorry for the confusion.
John
