Members, the new Building nees some large pipe. Last Sunday @Paula came by and graded a proper elevation for the dumpster area and the Zoning Required Screen, at the NE Corner. (The water will run away from the building. Yes!)
We need some heavy 5 or 6 inch pipe. Old oil field casing or similar. To protect the building, we need to set two of these between the dumpster and the building, 2 at 5 or 6 feet long would be great. If someone has access to them, we can pick them up.
I doubt it will be totally free but if it’s not too high I’ll cover it. Even if I have to get it in two swipes.
We have a “store” with a ton of stuff that would be useful to members and the new location. There are all kinds of tools/equipment/you name it oddball stuff. Kind of like the yard store.
We were at the building today working on heating calculations and noticed that the pipes for the former basketball goals were still there in good shape. Also, there were a number of superfluous pipes under the courtyard pavilion that can safely be removed. I think we have enough pipe on site for this project.
I did not see any details about what is needed for bollards. There are more ways to create functional bollards than depicted. If only needed where a somewhat fragile post for screening is near where people may be backing up trailers or backing out of parking and if not embedded in a concrete slab bollards can function well when not too damage resistant, but relatively easy to replace. So 3 small diameter pipes filled with concrete only buried a couple of feet may be just as useful and cheaper (time and material) than one large ‘bulletproof’ diameter thick walled pipe buried three feet.
Just my experience, not by any means the only way to go, or the ‘industry standard’.
As makers, experimenters, and diverse people with large aggregate experience we can surely come up with what we need even if it does not work out to be ‘optimum’.
Remember that bollards cannot ever prevent all possible mishaps, mainly they only have to be highly visible and give warning by resistance or noise that you are out of bounds.
The new building has a dumpster between the Garage Door to the Maintenance Shop and the North (ADA) Entrance. The need for bollards is to protect the building from the dumpster. Every dumpster I’ve ever had moves. It moves because the trash truck picks it up and puts it down. They all move backward, into our building.
We were thinking used pipe being inexpensive.
The screen for the dumpster is required for our Re-zoning… The screen details are up in the air. We had not discussed a bollard to protect the screen. Good Idea.
Chain link corner post 2 3/8 dia x 7 ft is $18 at Lowe’s. Is everyone thinking something bigger? The 3.00 structural pipe is $4 per foot at the business in Augusta.
Just so I am clear. This is for our building protection, not a code requirement.
I wanted to know what the differences would be, from what people were mentioning. I would agree with @John.Nicholas used/scrap steel pipe would be best on the budget, if larger steel tubing can be found by someone.
The only reference I could find was a trash company require 4 inch steel pipe 40 inch exposed embedded 24 30 inches apart. Concrete filled steel pipe embedded in concrete.
I ran a few simulations in Fusion 360. If you look at the pictures. No color shows it is over 4 times safety rating of the the material at the simulated load. Red is below the failure point it will not rebound (I think). The moral of the story. The most steel the better. Duh.
I checked a few combinations ranging from 2 3/8 corner post 16 gauge (FP), to 4" 1/8. I ran a few simulations with varying amounts of rebar ranging from #2(1/4") #4(1/2"). I ran a 3 ton force applied the post about 6-12" above the ground.
2-3/8 x 6’ menards under $17 (very close to JC at lowes). 20’ #4 rebar $7. Depending on how large/deep the hole is $5-$15 (ready mix) concrete.
FP by it self is very weak compared to the others, less steel.
The Zoning Requirement is to screen the dumpster. A 6 or 8 feet long screen from the building out would be acceptable. The key is the forklift action of the trash truck. The dumpster moves backwards, over time. I have had replace a chain link fence in the 1980’s due to this. (The dempster was lowered onto the fence).
The comment about also protecting the end post supporting the screen is valid. There have been several good suggestions from this post. Your Fusion 360 analysis confirms my experience.