oh my god, i want to kick a hole in the drywall inside my double-wide that’s parked DOWN BY THE RIVER!!!
okay, whew. i got this copper piece that i want to keep, and there is a hole all the way through part of this copper piece, and in that hole is a daggum copper pin that is as stuck as stuck can be, daggum it. the daggum thing has done seized up and won’t come out!
now, i do not care one tinker’s damn about saving the pin. oh no, that daggum pin can go straight to daggum hell and burn in the unholy fires of satan. the main piece through which the pin goes is what i’m trying to save.
it all started with DUH A COPPER PIN IN SOME TIGHT COPPER HOLE IS GONNA PATINA UP DAGGUM IT AND GET STUCK IN THERE!
and, as you can see by the attached photos… it just went sour from there.
how can i get that daggum pin out of that daggum hole without ruining the part i want to keep???
i am so frustrated, i’m fixing to just bite right into that daggum pin with my backteeth and start a-twisting until something breaks or that daggum pin slides right on out!
I don’t know how fast the copper would transfer heat but maybe an ice cube held on the pin and heat the other part. Or put it in a drill press vice and drill down through the pin, redrilling larger until the pin will release and come out.
Considering copper is one of the best conductors there is, it’s gonna transfer that heat pretty fast.
I would put that part in a rigid vise on a mill, indicate it in, find the center, drill it out. I wouldn’t try this in a drill press or with a hand held drill.
To be clear, I would not try to drill all the way to the OD of the pin. I would try to stop a few thou before so that a thin shell of the pin and be removed.
Well, the shorter end of the pin appears swelled, so unless it’s a tapered pin and that’s the smaller diameter end the longer end needs to be pushed through.
I would carefully drill as precisely centered as possible a small hole in the long end. Then step up drill sizes a little at a time while trying to barely go deeper than the exposed length. You might be able to break the exposed part off cleanly with the last drill, but that’s not necessary.
A pin punch then should be able to drive the pin all the way through. With copper a solid blow is better than tap-tap-tapping to avoid work hardening and swelling.
Copper is way too thermally conductive for differential heating to help.
is there something i could use at the metal shop to do this? if i come by with the piece, could you show me how to do it? can you just do it for me? actually, can you drive over to my house and pick it up and fix it?
kidding. but yeah, where do i go in the metal shop to fix this daggum thing?
I think I already explained how you could do it. And I think several of said that heat won’t work with similar metals like that. Yes all the things I described are in the metal shop.
If you let us know when you want to try to do it somebody may be able to meet you up there.
I would also add that if you try to do this on a drill press or with a hand drill you should at least use a zero or negative rake drill because copper is soft and will grab otherwise
