Thickness Planer

Chipped knives have been moved to the right side of the cutterhead, for optimal cutting avoid the extreme right

These chipped blades were almost assuredly caused by the use of material with embedded nails or screws. Please take care in checking all lumber for foreign bodies before using any machinery on it. Per our policy on the wiki: please use “only WELL INSPECTED reclaimed lumber free of sand, gravel, nails, screws, staples or finish”.

I’ve rotated all the blades. They have all been used on all sides, but we’re in a much better place than we were yesterday as the wear was excessive, the worst I’ve ever seen on anything carbide! Replacing the damaged blades on the right side is necessary and I will do this post haste, I will replace all knives as soon as funds can be secured.

I’d also been made aware of some difficulty raising and lowering the bed and dull knives with the planer.
Well, I’ve done some micro adjustment to the bed which improved the ease of raising and lowering, but only marginally. When time allows I will do a thorough tune up and hopefully get it working smooth. If adjustment is not sufficient, I suspect that the nuts would need replacing, but they are discontinued from every distributer I could find. @rustin.atkeisson @whateg01 how hard would it be to make these if needed: ?


There is a metal detector in the bottom drawer of the red cabinet in the room with the saws. I have used it on pallet wood.


Be aware that even new lumber may have Staples in it securing bar codes and the like.

The only really not standard part of those nuts is the acme thread, but I’m sure a tap can be found for that. The rest looks pretty easy.

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David, that’s exactly what I wanted to hear. There are 3 vital parts: The internal acme thread, the set screw threads, and the dimensions where it fits to a keyway in the table base. All the more complex geometry isn’t even important, probably just designed to save on materials and simplify casting.

Woodman, good point!
I will try to find a more prominent home for the metal detector and add it to my list of tools to evaluate weekly.
Future safety classes will further emphasize the importance of checking lumber for foreign materials and cover the use of the metal detector.
In addition, a variety of signage primarily concerning safety will be put up in the coming months and I’ll be sure to include the metal detector in it.

What model of planer do we have? There are similar parts available on the web but I don’t know if they fit or not. This one, for example, looks very similar, but it might not fit our machine.

This one is backordered and listed for a grizzly machine, but again appears to be similar.

Many of these machines (definitely not the grizzly above) are of similar design so there may very well be parts for another machine that are exactly the same but with a different part number. Might not apply in this case, but it could.

Looks identical. Again, the vital specs are the threads and positional relation to each other. the planer model is JWP-15HH.

Also, not sure that the nuts need replacing. I will be trying a more involved tuning soon, and have an idea that may allow me to inspect one of the nuts without disassembling the entire chassis.

Thanks for taking an interest in this particularly, and for all the fixing I know you do in general!!!

A good cleaning and application of a dry lube might make all the difference in the world.

Yeah, did all that last night. Marginally better.

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