Wobble blade -2 to hit +4 damage
So you could just take a blank and slowly raise the blade height to make a throat plate or would it cause a complication?
James:
Yes - with the REQUIREMENT that the throat insert be held down securely with another board. That is true no matter the size of the ZCI (zero clearance insert) you are making.
Bill
David:
Traditional dado sets are available in 6" versions - FreudSD206. I agree that it is seldom we need a dado much deeper than 3/8" so that extra metal is not doing much.
For those who make a lot of dados or have a larger budget than I do the Freud Dial-a-Width is an interesting option.
And those lovely thin brass spacers that come with traditional dado sets sliced my fingers more than once before I replaced them with magnetic spacers.
Bill
May have to pick up a 40t atb…
David:
Regarding the fence question.
It is an Accusquare from MuleCabinetmaker in Canada with a front rail length of 60". I see it is also available from other vendors. I purchased it along with a split router fence that attaches to the outboard side.
The front rail is anodized aluminum U-Channel. The locking mechanism is similar to a biesemeyer except it uses a threaded knob instead of a lever to lock the fence to the front rail. For some this is a drawback as it requires sliding the fence to the end of the rail to remove it and is a bit fiddly to reinstall. Since I seldom remove the fence this has not been an issue. It has a rear rail which is used to keep the fence from dragging on the table not for locking. It rides on a piece of high density plastic.
Once installed and adjusted I have never had to touch it. When I was looking for a fence for my old 8" tablesaw I was drawn to this unit because it was the only one I could find that had a shorter fence to match my table. In addition to being less expensive. A test by Wood Magazine which recorded a deflection of .025" when pushing a 100 lb. 4’ x 8’ x ¾" piece of MDF through the saw convinced me this was sufficient for my needs. If I am cutting something of that size I will use my DIY tracksaw.
I have had this since 2004 and added a couple of accessories including adjustable stops for the U-Channel, a magnifier for the tape to accommodate old eyeballs and a dust port for the router fence.
The T-Slots on the top and sides also make attaching jigs very easy.
Bill
I personally don’t like wobbler blades due to the rounded bottom they leave I got and use a Freud like the above mentioned the shims allow a nice precision fit!
Frank:
I also like the stacked dado sets as I find them easier to configure. With magnetic shims and a little jig it is easy to create a stack of the width needed without a lot of fiddling.
A note about magnetic shims - I had to learn only one side of them is magnetic. I don’t know how they do that but I almost sent them back when I couldn’t get them to stick to the chippers.
Bill
The front rail functions a lot like the one on the uni-fence. I picked up a uni-fence some time ago missing the front rail. Never got around to making or finding a new one. The uni-fence has a bar that is narrow enough to fit through the slot on the front but web you turn the lever, it rotates and catches the edges of the opening. Then the lever acts as a cam to lock it in place. I like my old cast iron table Craftsman but it’s on a folding stand so I’d like to put a lightweight fence on it.
David:
I have a 50" front rail for a Delta Uni-Saw fence.
Let me know if you are interested. Probably would require a shop visit.
Bill
By golly I think I might just be! I’m not sure how much difference there is in the older design vs the newer one but I have the older style fence
David:
This is the older style rail. The difference in the rails is how you access the mounting bolts.
For your viewing pleasure. This was a test setup to verify the rail and uni-fence were compatible.
Bill
Thanks Bill. I just sent you a message.