Hello, ok I recently purchased a CR-10s 500 which is the 19.7 inch bed.
And for the life of me I can not get a print to hold to the glass all the way through a print.
I have the bed temp up at 160 degrees and have it on slip for a base. usually starts great until its about
3 inches tall then it just goes crazy spaghetti at the top and slides the project around.
I have seen the optional mats for the smaller 300 size but can not find one that is 500.
Or do I just get a thicker piece of glass?
PLA or ABS? Can you post a clear picture of the bottom of one of the prints that popped loose? You may just need to adjust the bed height/level.
Also, unless you’ve somehow changed your printer to fahrenheit your bed is definitely not getting up to 160. Unless some big changes have been made, the max bed temp for that printer will be 100 or less.
Its on Fahrenheit, and pla
Well, there’s your problem, using Fahrenheit temps increases print failures by 10x. 
212F(100C) is way higher than what you would usually use for PLA. The first thing to confirm is that the bed is level and that the first layer is starting at the appropriate height. You can usually tell by looking at the bottom of a failed print if the nozzle was too high on the first layer.
Not running 212, when I started it was at 85f, and would hold nothing so I went up, took 30 minutes for the bed to get up to temp 160 according to my laser. Then Printed really well until 3 inches, at that point it was an ear on a dog scrambled, then pushed it off. I watched it do it i didnt see it throw an air bubble per se. When I stopped it the bottom 2 inches of the print were warm and the slip piece removed from the print as it should. Is it possibly just getting two cold at the top and cooling down and sticking??
Woops, my brain mixed up the temp you wrote and the specs I was reading. 160F(71C) is pretty reasonable for PLA. 85F(29C) is very low. Taking 30 minutes to get to 70C is pretty ridiculous. Is that how long is takes to start printing?
How large is the object you are printing?
Probably not.
It is a 500mm 19,7 inch bed so yeah it only has a 700 watt heater takes 20-30 to get preheat, I have found a 1300 watt upgrade, did want to spend 180 on that if I didn’t need it. I bought the big one becouse I need to create some large mold blanks that are pizza edge protectors. Right now just trying to get my understanding of the machine under wraps. I am pretty good on the design side of life I have made signs and shirts for the last 15 years. Screen print, metal work, vinyl cutter, and desk top printing along with large format.
I just received another set of bars to give some more stability to the uprights they are really tall. Also got new level pads to put on, but I did get the auto level option so pretty sure I am level. I am setting down to a 20# pound paper and then letting it go.
You could try printing this bed level test and see how it does: CR-10 Bed Level Test by arifsethi - Thingiverse
I will try that tonigh
Use hairspray
I let bed shut off after first layer usually.
I use 60°C and it takes about 1to 2 mins to heat up.
anything else you might have something else going on!
I just ordered bed insulation for my Prusa i3. Forum posts indicated under-bed insulation can shorten the warm-up time by ~25%
Seems likely it would make a notable difference for a larger printer as well.
Sorry for not answering the question you asked… 
The cr-10s are slow to heat up as they are 12v, our CR-6 Max is a 500 build plate and takes a while to heat up as well.
No, but something I had not thought thanks for the idea.
Have you had any luck getting your prints to stick better?
Been working to much this week, Built a new table for it to sit on and I am going to move it, put on the vertical stabilizers, New leveling wheels and springs. Then go at it again.